A Trek Through Tasmania – The Overland Track 1995
Posted Wednesday 1st January 2025
Contents
- Friday – A Near Thing
- Saturday – Recovery Of Sorts
- Sunday – A Long Day Out
- Monday – Floundering Through Mud
- Tuesday – On Top Of Tasmania
- Wednesday – Cathedral And Waterfall
- Thursday – Bushwalkers Weather Alert
- Friday – The Great Snow Aftermath
- Saturday – The End Of Walking
- Sunday – Return To Normal Life
This is the story of a solo walk on the Overland Track, a well-trodden wilderness walk through central Tasmania. The plan was to take 10 days from Friday 24 March to Sunday 2 April to walk from Cradle Valley to Cynthia Bay via the main Overland Track with a number of optional side trips en route – minimum distance 80 km, maximum distance 140 km, depending on the options. In the event I diverted from the plan right at the start, for reasons that will become abundantly obvious, and hardly met any of it subsequently other than arriving at Lake St Clair on the intended day.
Right at the start the camera failed so this story is based around my diary record, with no pictures to back it up. But what a trip it was.
Note: The story sometimes has several entries during a single day, and these have been adjusted to provide some continuity. The approximate time and location of writing provides context. Pictures are not of this trip but a later one in quite different conditions. They have been included to provide some idea of the track, even if I didn’t see much of it on my trip.
Friday – A Near Thing
Rangers Hut 18:00
A decidedly different day to the one I planned and in some ways a near thing that it succeeded at all. I flew out of Adelaide on the first Melbourne flight, feeling somewhat tense, probably as a result of escaping from what was a hugely stressful week. The flights, to Melbourne then Devonport, were all on time and all the connections worked without a hitch. Interestingly my backpack weighed in at 30 kg when checked in with the airline – nowadays I get concerned if it exceeds 16 kg.
The Wilderness bus arrived at Devonport about 10 minutes after the plane landed – a minibus with a luggage trailer. The weather at Devonport was fine but blowy, not a good sign. There were a number of passengers, mainly day trippers but also a couple who had finished the walk and were returning to collect their car and another who stopped off at the Cradle camping area. So, I was really on my own; no company to set off with.
The couple who had finished the walk were very useful in updating track conditions – they had 5 days of rain out of 8 which is statistically about right but not all that encouraging.
Closer to Cradle Mountain we got some rain, and more concerningly the rain developed into something that looked very like sleet. The forecast as chalked up at the Ranger station spoke of rain with snow higher up with a temperature of 3 degrees at 08:00. As if to prove a point it really did snow quite heavily on the last leg into Dove Lake. The bus driver had already commented that there was a lot of water around, even for that part of the world. Just what the Lone Adventurer needed, an unplanned dive off the deep end of challenges.
I had planned to go from Dove Lake to Kitchen Hut to Waterfall Valley and had allowed 4 hours for the 10 kms. Given the state of the weather at the start, I made the first of many diversions from plan – I would go via the Ballroom Forest and Lake Wilks to limit exposure to what was looking rather threatening.
It was snowing, driven by a strong wind, as I left the car park and I was struck by the thought that from here on for the next 10 days I am in charge – nobody else to make decisions, issue instructions, fly the planes, drive the buses or anything else; just me.
I made reasonable pace the first hour, but then I got to the Ballroom Forest and on to the lead to the Face Track. It swarmed up through the bush – steep narrow and most of the way running with water. It climbed, descended, and went all over the place but not where I thought it should. In the end I got the map out and sure enough it was the right track – just longer and more difficult than I had initially presumed. I chose this route, instead of via Marions Lookout, to keep out of the wind but it didn’t keep out of the frequent snow showers.
Eventually I reached Lake Wilks and into considerably greater exposure, only to see further soaring cliffs above. My energy was flagging and hands were bitterly cold, while everything below my knees was sodden. I realised that it was a mistake not to have donned thermals earlier. This certainly was not the place to do it.
At this point I inadvertently walked off the end of a zig-zag into increasingly difficult Tasmanian scrub. It took a futile 20 minutes, wasting energy, trying to return to where I should have been while the conditions continued to deteriorate. I was busy talking to myself angrily, desperately, while floundering around. I half decided to return to Dove Lake, but at this stage was becoming increasingly concerned about my condition in by what was then something approximating a blizzard. If I didn’t make the right move, I could easily end up with hypothermia; in fact, I wondered if I wasn’t already on the way.
The track from Lake Wilks to the Face Track can be seen angling upward mid picture – very exposed in the blizzard.
This was really serious stuff now – not a jolly jaunt at all. There was a real possibility that I could finish up as a disaster. To make matters worse the snow was even heavier and driven by a savage wind. The track when I relocated it soared up a rocky spine hugely exposed, then up what had turned into a running creek.
I was becoming exhausted and several times just saved myself from stumbling and falling. I couldn’t stop for fear of further deterioration, but I was finding it harder and harder to keep going. I had decided to make for Scott Kilvert hut – easier grades (said the map), more sheltered approach away from the wind, and a bit closer.
After what seemed like an interminable time I reached the Face Track junction. A finger board said Rangers Hut – I had overlooked the emergency shelter which was only a kilometre or so away (only being a relative term in the circumstances).
The track was rough although reasonably graded for much of the way but had a difficult screaming descent through a cliff line near the end – enough to turn my overloaded knees to jelly. Eventually I staggered up to the hut – small and unheated but with a sleeping platform – and decided there and then that I had no alternative but to stop here for the night. I was approaching emergency condition, and the weather was still worsening.
The wind howled constantly round the hut, shaking it with heavier gusts. Periodically snow piled up on the window then slid off in big sheets. I had a cup of soup and a bit to eat and changed out of all the wet gear. Dinner followed while there was still daylight left. The hut was bitterly cold, but being out on the Scott Kilvert track would have been infinitely worse. After eating it was straight into the sleeping bag.
It took me exactly three hours to achieve less than half distance that I had planned.
4·5 km; 3 hrs.
Tomorrow I plan to head for Scott Kilvert (about 3 km according to the map), and if the weather and my condition are OK then I will make a decision from there. I think I will need to simplify my plans a bit, but the weather will be doing that for me anyway.
The thing that really kept me going today, when I think deeply about it, was the desire to see this thing through – to come out the other end having achieved something despite the conditions. I was really frightened by my and the external conditions today for the first time that I can remember. Still, I am OK now and have probably learned quite a bit about the unforgiving nature of this place in a rather forceful way.
Saturday – Recovery Of Sorts
Rangers Hut 08:30
Daylight was evident before 07:00 but I stoically stayed in my sleeping bag until about 08:15 where it was far warmer. It seemed there was some blue sky about and not too much wind so a reasonably early start might be a good idea.
When I got up I was greeted by the most incredible sight – all the mountains from where I was and upward were covered in snow. Even the hut was wearing a blanket of snow, while drifts lay on the ground outside. Damn the camera – these sights are things of wonder but will have to be committed to memory only.
Overnight was better than I thought. I actually went to bed last night about 20:00 and once the sleeping bag had warmed up was quite OK. I had taken the precaution of blocking the draftway at the bottom of the door which helped to keep the inside tolerable.
The sleeping bench was hard but not as bad as some (or maybe I was in a more accommodating mood). Breakfast consisted of two serves of hot milk and cereal plus coffee and bread.
It started snowing again at this point and clouds again descended. This is an awesome place; dangerous and frightening on one hand and of immense beauty and character on the other. At least Scott Kilvert has a heater to dry things out, which will help somewhat.
I should make mention of the waterfalls of yesterday – great cascades of water from off the plateau and from Lake Wilks plunging hundreds of feet into Dove Lake. Periodically they would be obscured by cloud and or snow but then they would reappear unchanged in their dramatic display. From Rangers Hut the biggest waterfall was directly across toward Marions Lookout, perhaps two kilometres away.
I will go to Scott Kilvert, stop and check my progress, then maybe try for Waterfall Valley. I expect that snow maybe a problem unless it melts quickly, in which case water will be the problem. One plus – I might be near my intended schedule but without side trips.
The snow gets heavier as I write – was it good luck I started yesterday? Today would be impossible if it remains like this. I wonder what other people are doing while I am in my frozen wasteland. Not that I am complaining – it is an experience, character building, a sort of cleansing of the spirit. Conditions are tough, but I am still here and functioning so maybe I am tough too. Uplifting, exhilarating in fact, at least after the event.
Scott Kilvert Hut 12:00
I set off at 10:05 from Rangers Hut after a large slow breakfast and repacking. Full thermal and wet weather gear with new socks (double). Yesterday’s clothes are still sodden but perhaps we can dry both them and me at Scott Kilvert. I reshaped the hat – pushed the crown out to a dome shape and made a chin strap. It probably looks strange, but I don’t have to look at it. At least I won’t have to carry the thing every time the wind gets up. It works fine in snow and rain except when the wind blows in horizontally.
The walk to Scott Kilvert took about 50 minutes. There was a young English guy there trying to work out which was the best way to return to Cradle Valley. There really is no route that doesn’t have significant exposure. In the end he decided to go via Cradle Cirque and Kitchen Hut. I suggested he pull up at the latter if things are bad rather than extend the risks.
The walk to Scott Kilvert was easy, mainly downhill. Wonderful spectacles but no camera – it remains about as useful as a house brick at the bottom of my pack, adding a bit more to my burden. Artists Pool was entrancing, even in the severe conditions, with soaring snow freckled peaks, beech forests, gnarled old pines and the usual Tasmanian endemic shrubs, scrub and herb fields. Old Gondwana lives on!
Artists Pool is charming at any time, but is quite magical in the conditions when I passed it by.
Scott Kilvert was a large well-kept hut in an attractive location by Lake Rodway. Despite the opportunity to go part way with the young Pom, I declined – I want to dry my clothes and take things easy. My hands were frozen when I started and for a while I had to walk face on to a freezing wind.
As I got down the valley conditions moderated (or did I merely drop below them – from the look of higher up this is more likely) and my hands, as always, warmed up as I walked. At least I must still have good circulation, even if my legs are a bit wobbly. The pack is too heavy – the slower I go early in the trip the more I can consume some of the weight and reduce the burden. Drying out clothes is essential – I must be carrying more water in them than the weight of food I have eaten so far.
For some peculiar reason I could pick up ABC-FM at my destination hut – a rather lovely SSO concert with Strauss ‘Alpine something’ – how appropriate. I could not get anything last night.
Snow persists on the towering ramparts above the hut and for this reason I will leave the climb out from here until tomorrow. With a bit more time to build up strength and the chance of better weather it makes good sense. I don’t want a repeat of yesterday. Time to wait out weather might also be a good idea, to allow for the best side trips in the Ossa region and at Pine Valley.
Apparently, the Cuvier Valley track is very muddy so I may take more time to Narcissus and maybe even take the boat to Cynthia Bay.
Scott Kilvert Hut 17:00
Sometime early afternoon a school group from Devonport descended on the hut, perhaps a dozen altogether including exchange students from Denmark, Argentina and Brazil. The solitude was somewhat shattered, but even though the tent is an option the easy and prudent decision is to stick it out in the hut – getting dry is important.
During the afternoon cloud swirled around Cradle Mountain and its snow fields while much of the rest was in intermittent sun. Some wonderful light effects. A day group turned up from Dove Lake, then a couple from Lake St. Clair and finally a couple of Japanese heading south. Reports from the northbound couple were of daily rain and flooding along with fairly full huts.
The forecast for tomorrow is for worsening conditions, but I must push on anyway. A wallaby has been grazing outside the hut since mid afternoon despite all the comings and goings.
2·5km; 0h 50m; cumulative 7·0km, 3h 50m.
Sunday – A Long Day Out
Scott Kilvert Hut 07:15
Last night was fairly crowded, with cooking in particular being somewhat chaotic. Afterwards, by candle and torch light, most sat round the potbelly while the Danish exchange student told ghost stories. He even had his companions asking for more! Without a doubt he was the personality of the school group. His attention was attracted by my rye bread, and in the end a bit of trading got him some in exchange for an apple.
I slept half under the table on the ground floor, along with the northbound couple and a couple of students. The floor for some reason seemed harder and less forgiving than the night before.
Got up at dawn – about 06:20 new time although there is much confusion today; various people have or have not adjusted their clocks for Daylight Saving and therefore talk in confusion about time. Had breakfast early – a huge bowl of hot milk and cereal plus real coffee.
This morning while clouds and drizzle were streaming over the ridge, the sun came out for a while over the lake and lit it up with a path of golden fire. For the second morning in a row, it was magic, although not so monumental as the day before.
Waterfall Valley Hut 11:00
Got away at 07:30 into a day of low fast moving cloud and some drizzle. The forecast was for worsening conditions this afternoon The track climbed all the way to Cradle Cirque – fairly easily at first but then quite unrelentingly for the best part of an hour, at my overloaded plodding pace. Deeply eroded track, running water, tall man-made and natural steps all made conditions somewhat difficult. Got stuck into the Staminade, now kept in a side pocket for easy access, and chocolate as energy sources.
The steepening climb on approach to the Cirque – Scott Kilvert Hut is near the distant Lake Rodway.
At the Cirque the now horizontal drizzle made my glasses useless, so I pocketed them until things improved. I also had to tighten the hat chin strap. This was no place to lose it, hundreds of feet down over the edge. Met a couple of day walk groups and a solo person finishing a south to north walk. The stories are all the same wet, rain, wind and flooding.
Ragged ramparts of Cradle Mountain shred the cloud – it was far worse when it was in blizzard conditions.
Once I got onto the Cirque I felt quite strong and was able to lope along at a reasonable rate. Although my legs are the weak link, they are getting noticeably stronger. One character I met has been nearly two weeks on the track and says he feels really virile after all the slog and exercise. I can’t say I shared his enthusiasm. I reached the Cirque at 09:00 and Waterfall Valley Hut at 0950 – quite good going by my standards.
I had an early lunch or huge morning tea while listening to ABC-FM. Last night I listened to an MSO concert until fairly late. I cannot understand why I should be able to get any FM here in all these mountains and valleys but am grateful just the same. Maybe some small compensation for no camera! I was offered a loan of a camera yesterday, but I decided against it – extra tonnage and I didn’t want to be responsible for someone else’s valuables. Still such generosity is typical of things you find out on the track.
Low cloud obscured the higher ground and all the mountains, and except for a momentary glimpse of Barn Bluff I have seen none of them. Went for a walk over to the old hut just now and came across a wallaby lounging back as if in a chair totally unconcerned by my appearance. The old hut has two waterfalls right behind it and even the brooding weather becomes part of the charm of it all.
One person I came across claimed he felt hypothermic climbing Cradle Mountain yesterday. It seems I was not alone in trying to do too much in the conditions.
I have really got into the swing of this lone walking thing now. It must be more than 24 hours since I gave it any thought. Apart from the first day I have not felt the need for company, although there are quite a number of people around.
One thing I need to watch is the date – today is Sunday because I looked it up, but otherwise it would be timeless and dateless. I should work out a critical day by location, so I don’t miss my planned date at Cynthia Bay.
Windermere Hut 18:00
Left Waterfall Hut at 13:30 but returned some minutes later to retrieve my map and compass which I had forgotten. A number of groups had arrived before I left including a group of five women heading north, four of whom would have been sixtyish. One turned out to be the (rather energetic) wife of a fellow I know in Melbourne. Small world.
Intermittent rain and drizzle increased as the afternoon wore on, making the moors truly bleak. About half way along I took a side track to Lake Will and Innes Falls. Mud all the way including my first experience of the famous Tasmanian knee deep stuff. Altogether an uncomfortable experience; I slipped over three times on the way back.
A surprise was two tiny sandy beaches, one with an ancient pine growing right on the waterline. Both ways I came across an elderly wombat; the second time I was able to reach out and actually pat it as I went past. There were also odd bits of coal lying around on the ground, and remnants of an old coal digging. Just why anyone would need to come to this place to dig coal is hard to imagine.
From the track junction it was about four km to Windermere Hut according to the map, partly over the same bleak moors. The drizzle was worse now – almost horizontal and bitingly cold. The track eventually dropped down to near Lake Windermere and the hut. I reckoned on about an hour, but two thirds of the way I faded badly and tottered into the hut at about 17:45. I just collapsed on to a bunk and someone was kind enough to give me a mug of raspberry tea as a reviver – typical of the track. It was a bit of a setback, but I probably overreached myself – something like 18 km for the day, 13 with a full pack.
18km; 10h 15m; cumulative 25km, 14h 05m.
I will see how I feel, but want to head to Pelion tomorrow, if possible, although it is about 15 km. Played a form of whist with Tim (Pom) and Jurgen (German naturally) before bed. ABC-FM has become very hard to get but instead picked up a Hobart 70’s FM station.
Monday – Floundering Through Mud
Windermere Hut 08:30
Had a hard night – could not get comfortable at all at the one-time. Hips OK but legs ache or vice versa.
It is interesting watching how a hut full of people wakes up. One person will rise ever so quietly at daybreak, then slowly others rise until all of a sudden everyone else rises all at once. It rained on and off overnight but it stopped by daylight.
The hut was cold so heading to Pelion looked to be a good option. My feet have been suffering a bit. I may lose two toe nails and have at least one good blister. I had wet feet for 10 hours yesterday, which is a major contributor. There was not a dry boot or sock in the place last night – everyone is in the same situation.
Pelion Hut 17:00
At New Pelion Hut (the old small one). What a day. Most of the time, except the start and finish, I walked with Tim and Jurgen. The Pine Forest Moor was horrific – unavoidable knee deep mud in all directions. At one point I waded through a lake with a stony bottom in preference to the mud.
In 1995 this board walk did not exist. The benign looking ground to its left was continuous knee-deep mud.
The only relief from the mud was wading through this small lake which at least had a stony bottom.
Most of the rest of the track was waterlogged or running with water My feet were wet within a few minutes of leaving and things never improved all day. Ankle deep water and knee deep mud became the normal for a good part of the day. I rerigged the pack en route which improved things a bit, but that seems to have transferred more of the burden to my shoulders.
I staggered into the hut at 15:40 with sore feet and shoulders, having left at 09:25 – a long day. The last section from Frog Flats, one of the least inspiring bits so far, was rough, uphill and muddy and I found it really hard going. Having consumed a lot of energy crossing Pine Forest Moor didn’t help. Two toe nails are definitely on the way out and I have a humongous blister on the end of the second right toe, plus a small one on the second left.
Even in the poor weather I experienced there was some visibility of Mt Oakleigh from the north.
The day was reasonably clear such that there was a more or less a clear view of the mountains in the direction we were going. Mountains to the north, behind us, were still obscured so there has been no clear sighting at all of Cradle Mountain or Barn Bluff.
A sight I did not see – Barn Bluff can be seen as far south as Pelion Gap – in this case with Lake Windermere in the foreground.
Apart from the boggy moors there were a couple of ridge crossings on a hard but wet bottom, open grasslands, wet rainforest of myrtle and beech draped in lichen and moss then, after Frog Flats, mixed forest. Next to the hut is a lovely gully full of beech trees, but I am in no condition to enjoy them.
There have been a few showers since arriving, but the fire is going and everything is drying. There are seven in this hut tonight – all from Windermere last night. Quite a cheerful little crowd.
Mt Oakleigh provides a dramatic view from Pelion Hut, but not when I passed through.
I think I am getting to the smelly stage, but so is everyone. The rivers are all about 1 degree on a good day; too cold to contemplate. When I got here I washed boots, socks, gaiters and thermals so at least they will start better tomorrow. I am told there are showers at Cynthia Bay so I guess they will get a fair bit of use.
The only wildlife today was a wallaby in a patch of bush not long after I started. There must be plenty around the hut but I am not venturing out to see (it is drizzling again). The log book records a possum that came in when the door was left open, and raided the packs.
15 km; 6h 15m; cumulative 40km, 20h 20m.
The plan for tomorrow – to Kiaora hut (8km) with a side trip to Mt Ossa (highest point in Tasmania).
Tuesday – On Top Of Tasmania
Kia Ora Hut 17:00
A slow start morning. Four of us set off together to walk to Kia Ora with a side trip to Mt. Ossa. I am not sure what I expected but it turned out to be one of the highlights. The trip from Pelion Hut to the Gap took me about 1h 45m, with the last kilometre being a real uphill slog. We had lunch on the boardwalk, and demolished a number of leeches, before setting off pack free to Ossa.
The first bit ascended sharply up the side of a knoll which was topped with glacially scarred rocks. It then sidled Mt. Doris, a dolerite peak, along a track made of natural flagstones through some absolutely delightful miniature alpine flats.
Mt Ossa from Mt Doris. The track can be seen scrambling up to join the rock chute high up near the false summit.
It then took a screaming ascent up the front ramparts of Ossa involving a fair amount of rock scrambling. Half way up we came across remnants of snow from last Friday. At the top of the ridge, a jumble of fallen dolerite columns no wider than a tabletop, there was a short descent to a col then another ascent through reasonably persistent snow to the summit plateau.
The top was unlike anything I have seen; huge green mossy clumps and bare rock splattered with snow across a vast boulder field, although in our case all enveloped in cloud.
The view from Mt Ossa on a good day covers half south western Tasmania. In cloud it has no views of consequence.
The actual summit is a rock tower with a summit area about the size of a coffee table, accessed by a shark fin rock with a couple of hand and foot holds. One side is a 20’ drop, the other hundreds of feet. Talk about exposure!!
Anyway, I got to the top and sat there for a few minutes with Tim and Peter (no room for Jurgen; he had to wait until we came down) munching scroggin and contemplating the inside of the cloud. I got a huge buzz out of reaching the top, a real thrill.
The actual summit requires a fairly airy scramble and is perched over a drop to infinity.
So far I haven’t put a foot wrong while walking despite the mud, rocks, roots and all. The poor old boots will probably be write offs by the end – perpetually wet and beginning to come apart inside.
Kia Ora Hut 19:00
Last night we saw a wallaby and a black possum – I wonder if it was a geographically embarrassed relative of Black Pete, or are they all black over here? There was a wallaby here when I arrived.
Tim’s camera failed today; two down out of three so far. I have given Jurgen my address so he can forward copies of any good photos on top of Ossa. For a time, I was the highest point in Tasmania (by 6’ 4”). On the Ossa walk at one stage, when the cloud cleared, we could see a whole group of mountains including one with a fantastic fluted cliff line appropriately named Cathedral Mountain. On the return from the summit there was a rainbow right across its face. Almost spiritual!
We left Pelion at 10:05, took 3 hrs for the Ossa side trip and arrived at Kia Ora at 16:30.
I seem to have overlooked the waterfalls. There are lots of small ones but the first really good one close up was on Sunday in Waterfall Valley; a bridal veil curtain of water 30’ – 40’ high falling into a tiny valley with its own miniature rainforest.
Innes Falls at the end of the Lake Will track was quite spectacular – a rush of water into a rocky gorge once again with its attached rainforest filling the gorge. I was so worn out and the weather so bleak I didn’t fully appreciate it at the time.
Today there was a most attractive cascade on Douglas Ck. about half an hour out of Pelion. There have been any number of falls and cascades visible at a distance which would be spectacular by any standard closer up.
13km; 6h 25m; cumulative 53km, 26h 45m.
Kia Ora Hut is quite crowded tonight. I now plan to go to Windy Ridge tomorrow then Pine Valley for two nights. I may be able to set up the tent at the latter, since it is generally more comfortable for sleeping.
My calves, feet and shoulders are the sore spots tonight. From tomorrow I will be within a day of completion if I want to shorten the walk for any reason.
Stop press; just had to break off – a native tiger cat (spotted quoll) was moseying around out the back – first time I have come across one. Isn’t this just wonderful – new experiences all the time.
Wednesday – Cathedral And Waterfall
Kia Ora Hut 10:00
A fairly full hut last night, but apart from an attempted burglary by a possum, reasonably peaceful. I couldn’t get comfortable and had probably the worst night so far, tossing and turning all night. I got some west coast radio station last night – very local with ads for a funny establishment that will sell you ice cream, CD’s, dry cleaning, blocks of ice and fix your vacuum cleaner. Or something similar. The only thing they didn’t offer was a weather forecast. The previous night I picked up the sound of ABC TV – interesting but a bit lacking without pictures.
Everyone had left the hut by 09:30 except two guys who are having a rest day. I was all packed up and more or less ready to go although in no great hurry. Through the middle level cloud were towering columns and cliff lines – Cathedral to the east, Falling Mountain to the south, the breast like Pelion East to the north and occasionally most of Ossa next to it. A rather lovely location. In fact all of the huts one way or another have been in very attractive locations with dramatic views – cloud not withstanding.
Windy Ridge Hut 16:00
The walk today was about right. I left way behind everyone else at 10:25, stopped at Du Cane hut (Windsor Castle), then later did a side trip to Hartnett Falls before plodding over Du Cane Gap and on to Windy Ridge Hut where I arrived about 14:15.
Du Cane Hut is a historic hut that is really only an emergency shelter, but a very welcome respite in lousy weather.
Much to my surprise five of the earlier starters were still there having lunch. I must have made good time. The falls were quite a surprise. A reasonably large flow of water (considering how close to source) plunging a hundred feet or so into a vertical rock gorge It is not until you actually reach the edge of the gorge that the real spectacle is apparent.
I met an old guy at the falls (he having arrived via a riverside track from the lower falls) who had first walked the Overland track around 1938! Apart from this meeting, the only other person I saw on the track was a young German I met just minutes before Windy Ridge hut.
My feet were still sore but no worse than yesterday. I seem to have got the pack sorted out at last and it now rides reasonably comfortably. When I was unpacking here I could hear a plaintive little voice inside the pack – the Walkman squeaking away through its earphones. I have no idea how long it had been going on in the pack. The funny thing was I couldn’t find it for some time – buried beneath all the usual items of greater importance.
Windy Ridge Hut 20:00
I have been sitting up chatting for some time prior to going to bed (bag!). Although I have had a fair bit of physical exertion today, I don’t feel tired and don’t want a repeat of last night. This hut is also reputedly the home of furry invaders, so I have buried my foods well inside the pack. There was a furry beasty, possibly a possum, when I went out a few minutes ago.
We nearly had the great Trangia disaster during the evening. Two northbounders both of whom couldn’t get the fuel cap off their Trangias. No fuel equals no stove equals no hot food! They were both fixed eventually but only after some ingenuity and application of a mixture of muscle and witchcraft.
10km; 3h 50m; cumulative 63km, 30h 35m.
I keep having to make an effort to remember what day it is. On top of Mt.Ossa we all recorded 27/3 when in fact it was 28/3, and similarly today I had logged 28/3 when in fact it is 29/3. I must be careful to fix Sunday in my internal calendar, so I turn up at Cynthia Bay on the right day.
I was thinking (in between my counted step routine as I plodded up to Du Cane Gap) what I have been doing and thinking over the last few days. The simple answer is I do not know. Much thought has been what I guess could be described as ‘survival’ – what am I doing, how far to the next landmark, do I need a break, am I able to keep going. Watching the track for foot placement is of overwhelming concern and really inhibits appreciation of the surroundings – speaking of which there was a lovely stretch of rainforest above Du Cane hut and another toward Windy Ridge Hut. Occasionally thoughts of love, life and the universe get a look in, but usually the immediate takes over and stops any great philosophical musings. The best thinking periods were the first night (when the topic was mainly survival) and part of the second day until the school group descended. Otherwise, the only alone time I have had has basically been on the track, where step by step issues become paramount.
Strangely the most common nationality on the track seems to be Poms. A couple of Japanese (including one last night who seemed more knackered than I usually am), Germans and occasional Canadians. There are a number of Australians, but I doubt they are a majority. Our group yesterday was made up of Germany, England, Wales and of course Oz. Interesting short-term groupings which form into teams very quickly – all work in unison on route finding, assisting each other, supplying food to each other and so on. The secret I suspect is necessity, there is no one else and no other way, so cooperation is an automatic response. I actually felt a bit sad to see Tim and Jurgen go earlier after two days together. Not so much Peter; he was much more independent and fairly typical of the loner type – relatively selfish and intolerant of others.
Thursday – Bushwalkers Weather Alert
Windy Ridge Hut 08:00
I slept better last night although initially I was too hot. By daylight I was pretty restless though, having worn out the staying power of the bits that felt the hard planks. The forecast, from ABC regional this time, was not good – a ‘bushwalkers weather alert’ with rain, hail and snow to 600 metres expected in the afternoon. I will still go to Pine Valley but without any certainty of when I might be able to come out if the forecast is right. It was blowing and raining heavily at this stage, but it was uncertain if things were supposed to get worse or this was it.
The food supply has been running down quite well. Bread and muesli ran out yesterday, biscuits will just last, while there is rice, coffee, mains and soup to spare for a day or two. The metho will be OK and in fact a one litre load would suffice for a walk this long with a bit of care.
Pine Valley Hut 15:00
The walk was fairly straight forward today, except for incessant rain. I left at 08:40 from Windy Ridge, 09:50 at the track junction, approximately 5 km, and 11:15 into Pine Valley hut, a further 5 km. The Overland track was a bit of a race track compared to recent experience, while the Pine Valley track has had a lot of work done on it but still has some rough patches. Forest most of the way with thick beech forest, laced with mosses and lichen for the last half an hour. It was raining all the way and continues to do so. The track in starts with an interesting ‘two persons at a time’ suspension bridge over the Narcissus River, which although it is only about 8 km from its source is a raging torrent maybe 15 – 20 metres wide. There is another bridge further south on the main track near Narcissus Hut.
Five people were in the hut but have all moved on leaving me on my own. If anyone else is coming I would expect them by 17:00, off the midday boat, but the weather being what it is there would be little point in coming in here.
In the beech forest there are long lengths of halved logs laid end to end as narrow walkways over boggy terrain – quite effective use of dead timber but too narrow for people to pass. In fact I saw no one at all on the trip in so passing on the log walkways was academic. I fell for the first time today – fairly heavily and straightened my right knee doing so. It troubled me for the remainder of the walk in but seems OK now. Another reason not to plan too ambitious activity tomorrow.
In the forest the boardwalks are made from halved logs, seen here in less snowy conditions.
Two of the people here were going north and traded two boiled eggs for lunch in exchange for some of my coffee bags. The bartering system is currency here and money doesn’t mean much.
There are some strange stories around the track. One is of a Tasmanian Devil being chased out of Scott Kilvert hut with brooms the day after I was there; another of a 50 cm green snake that slithered out of a pack when it was being unloaded for dinner.
This hut is on a rise buried deep in forest – it would be difficult to find if it was not for the sign posts. Quite a lovely location on a fine day but a bit dark and moody at the moment. I haven’t even considered pitching the tent – far too wet and anyway I am the sole occupant of a perfectly good hut. The tent sites are a bit away from the hut, near the creek, which is probably rising with all the rain and that would make cooking etc a bit of a chore as well.
Pine Valley Hut deep in the forest, minus the snow.
I will plan dinner soon, read a bit and see if any radio station wants too talk to me. And since you mention it, it is time for afternoon tea – perhaps blackcurrant tea, chocolate and a Mars Bar? Yes thank you, don’t mind if I do.
Actually, I went out to clean a pot or two, for afternoon tea, and it is now intermittently snowing in between the rain. The forecasters look like they know a thing or two.
Pine Valley Hut 20:00
A young Dutch guy, with limited hiking equipment and by the sound of it less money, has just turned up – the only person he is aware of headed this way. The snow persists and apparently the creek is now flooded and over the track in a number of places. If the rain and snow persist, I may have to spend another day here. Getting out may not be that easy.
The track follows the creek leaving Pine Valley Hut, seen here in more benign conditions.
It has been snowing continuously for some hours; the ground, trees and hut are now all covered with several centimetres of snow. It is absolutely magic – something like a Canadian winter rather than an Australian autumn. This hut is at about 850 metres so presumably almost all of the Overland track will be having a similar snow dump. Even though there is no chance I will be doing any side trips tomorrow, this snow fall has really made my day. If it continues for a good part of the night tomorrow could be distinctly interesting.
ABC-FM has reappeared. An excerpt of Hayden’s ‘Mass in the Time of War’ has just been played. It sounds interesting and worth following up.
Dinner tonight was chicken and corn soup (at least this time I got 6 bits of corn, more than all the rest put together) and Mexican Chilli Pasta (a strange international mixture) which I livened up with bits of pepperoni. I don’t want to go to bed for a while in the hope of sleeping better – never good just less badly.
Somewhere along the way I met a couple of blokes who set out last Friday just ahead of me via Marions Lookout but were turned back by the weather. I was not wrong at all; just somewhat ambitious. Just as well I did not go via Marions as I originally intended. My right leg and knee are a bit stiff, presumably from the fall.
Pine Valley Hut 21:00
Gentle snow still falls. The trees are carrying five or more centimetres of snow so presumably it is this thick on the ground too. There are possum tracks and some other four footed animal tracks, maybe native cats, in the snow outside.
10km 2h 35m; cumulative 73km, 33h 10m.
Unless there is a rapid but unlikely turnaround in the weather I will walk out to Narcissus tomorrow then Echo Point or Cynthia Bay on Saturday, a bit ahead of my original schedule. In some ways I would like to finish it now but there is little point in doing so even if it were possible.
It is still snowing as night comes on. I went down to the flats to pick up a bin of coal and later to the creek and everything was covered in white. Everything – trees, shrubs, the ground are all topped in a layer of white, with more white flakes drifting down all the time – a wonderland. I just cannot convey the majesty of the all this – the overwhelming beauty, the chance happenstance that allows just me and Menno to be part it. All the aches, pains, hardships and so on have their rewards and this must be one of them. I have now had snow on Friday, Saturday, Tuesday and Thursday, and will probably have more tomorrow. This region is a wonderful place but not one to trifle with. It has been my privilege to enter natures domain – but only on natures terms; not mine.
Friday – The Great Snow Aftermath
Pine Valley Hut 08:00
Woke up early today (05:45) just as dawn was breaking. Got up about 06:15 to a most incredible sight – snow everywhere about 15 cm deep and up to 30 cm (12 inches). Getting out will be quite an adventure. A little yellow robin keeps bouncing around outside as if looking for food or some such. I am not surprised.
The hut was 2 degrees when we got up so we lit the fire. At least we will start off warm.
Small flurries of snow persist but make little difference for now. We will have difficulty finding replacement firewood for the hut in these conditions. My biggest worry is not the snow but the effect of a sudden thaw (flooding, and/or snow cascading off trees) or a much heavier fall which might start to hide the track and make surfaces treacherous.
While it was raining yesterday the hut was noisy; rain on the roof, wind in the trees and so on. As soon as the snow set in silence descended and now apart from us and occasional sounds outside there is total silence.
Narcissus Hut 11:30
I will continue on to Echo Point Hut for the night. Left at 08:20 from Pine Valley Hut and despite the snow made good time to arrive this hut at 10:50. There was snow everywhere. We had to plough through bent bushes, which flicked snow all over the place as we pushed through while feeling our way underfoot most of the way. Menno very thoughtfully suggested I should lead (in other words ‘plough the snow’) since I am a local and therefore must know about these things!
Some spots were icy and treacherous underfoot. It snowed quite heavily to begin with but within the hour it had stopped, and the sun came out. The clouds lifted from the surrounding mountains to reveal the most wonderful vista imaginable – my first sighting of what had been all around us since Du Cane Gap. Notably, the Mt Geryon pinnacles showed up somewhat mistily, making for a most dramatic view as well as highlighting how much of the surroundings I had missed along the way.
Mt Geryon (the three headed monster) loomed rather ethereally out of cloud while we were walking out from Pine Valley.
Towering ragged fluted mountains clad in their mantle of white were a dramatic backdrop to the virgin snow scene we were ploughing through. Absolutely beyond adequate description – I get all choked up just thinking about it. Almost as if a curtain had been drawn back to reveal something very special.
Menno’s camera also chose to fail at this point. Maybe some things are just not meant to be kept anywhere except in the minds of those who were there.
At Pine Valley track junction Menno and I parted company – he to the north and me south. While we were there a Pom I had previously met at Kia Ora Hut appeared from the north heading for Pine Valley, so at least the other two then had footmarks in the snow to follow.
I wasn’t concerned about navigation since my bit of the track was clearly marked and easy to follow. The Pom was somewhat bemused by the fact that his folks thought he was in sunny Oz when he was in fact deep in snow – we took his picture during a moment of sunshine to help confuse them.
Shortly after leaving the others the sun came out, but only for a short period, so snow in the trees started cascading down – at one stage my trusty but now somewhat battered hat was wearing a rim of snow that had come from tree falls. At the same time icing underfoot became a problem, particularly on boardwalks.
I met three northbound walkers about halfway to Narcissus, but otherwise I was on my own again. On the approach to the Overland track suspension bridge I slipped over. It was a bit worrying since the river here was about 20 metres wide, extremely cold and fast flowing. I had no desire to take an unplanned swim so took the crossing very cautiously.
By the time I arrived at Narcissus hut most of the snow was out of the trees, but as if in compensation it started snowing again.
Three track workers were in the hut and they provided hot water for soup and coffee during the hour I was there. I was very cold though and I decided to press on to Echo Point, making it 15 km straight up with a full pack for the day, but leaving only 11 km for tomorrow.
While I was there one of the track workers gave me a letter to post – it has a ‘with love’ sticker so I guess it is important to him. I will post it tomorrow. I also picked up a questionnaire about the Overland track which I will post at the same time.
Echo Point Hut 15:30
I left Narcissus at 11:55 and arrived here at 13:30. It must be more than the marked five km, and reading off the map I reckon it has to be nearer six km. The last three km were through myrtle forest, but typically up, down and all over the place making it hard to maintain any pace. I was really just about at my limit when I arrived.
Mt Olympus towers over the Narcissus River. On my trip it was plastered in snow, but only intermittently visible through clouds, rain and hail.
Echo Hut the smallest hut so far; four double bunks (platforms), a cooking shelf and a pot belly. It stands right on the lake shore and has water views on three sides. It also has a jetty and within minutes of my arrival the launch arrived with a dozen or so day trippers for a quick forest tour.
I took a chance and asked the captain (driver, pilot or whatever) if there were any cabins at Cynthia Bay and could he arrange one for me when he got back ? Silly me – he was straight on the radio and had it all fixed up in no time at all. How quickly we forget the normal trappings of life.
During the walk from Narcissus it snowed for a while, stopped but the trees kept unburdening themselves, then there was little evidence of snow except in a couple of exposed spots, then it snowed again as I arrived. Since then the sun has shone on nearby peaks followed by a hail storm. No wonder they warn about the weather!
At this stage I had the hut to myself. Others may arrive from either direction but at least I am set up. Outside the hut door there is a small beach and a stream running into the lake. The backdrop in all directions is of snow covered ranges and peaks. A wonderful setting for my last remote night.
The wind whips straight down the lake but my hut door is on the other side – so I can sit here by the heater with the door open watching snow and hail tumbling down outside against a backdrop of rainforest, lake and beach. How perversely idyllic.
My right knee is a bit stiff and a couple of times started to worry me. At the same time my left knee twice nearly collapsed without warning, so I have taken special care not to compensate one against the other.
There has only been one other person on the track here today, judging by footprints in the snow and mud. However, I did not see whoever it was. It is strange how I can be all alone yet still get this feeling of having company sometimes.
Difficulties in lighting the fire (wet wood mainly) led to creative measures – a heap of dunny paper soaked in metho with heaps of leaves and twigs off a dead tree just down the beach. The trick of using dead wood not lying on the ground still works. I normally wouldn’t use metho either, but I can afford it and I was wet and frozen. I put a note about wet wood in the logbook in the hope of encouraging others to be more thoughtful. I have scoured the area and collected a reasonable heap of wood which is drying behind the heater now.
Echo Point Hut 17:00
Just now, as I was reading, a tiny wallaby appeared at the door, peered in snuffled around the steps then wandered off. It may have been a Pademelon, but I cannot be sure from the limited descriptions I have in the guidebook.
Two groups arrived here from Cynthia Bay – a trio of American girls from Melbourne Uni and two guys from Uni of Tasmania. Quite good company but rather crowded in this hut. I will be walking out in the morning, the girls are getting the ferry and the guys were planning for Mt Olympus, but that is almost certainly cut off by snow.
15km; 5h 10m; cumulative 88km, 38h 20m.
I was thinking last night – just 25 km more, then off to Hobart and ‘civilisation’ again, although I am sure I am not in much of a hurry to leave the ‘wilderness’.
This will be my eighth night out, but it really doesn’t seem any time at all. There have been a lot of privations, exhaustion, discomfort, pain and so on, but these are more than offset by the wonderful kaleidoscope of nature, the people on the track, new experiences, trials of self and genuine freedom to be completely in charge. The only external time constraint was Sunday at Cynthia Bay, and I will beat that by a day without trying. Otherwise, I have been free to do as I wanted for the last eight days.
I love this place despite (or because of) all its vagaries. I will return one day and do it all again, no doubt generating a whole new set of experiences.
Saturday – The End Of Walking
Cynthia Bay 14:00
Not one of the best days, but the walk is now over. Got up about 07:15 – the bunk was more comfortable than most despite its rough appearance. The first thing I discovered was four holes eaten in the top of my pack; the first (and quite serious) rodent attack on the trip. I had put the food out of the way but forgot the chocolate and Muesli bars in the lid. It will have to be repaired sometime.
I left the hut at 09:10 expecting about 2 ½ hours walking. The track was through myrtle forest for the first two hours; up, down, around, roots, mud et al in confused succession. Not a quick or easy walk. It became apparent that I was not going to make it in the expected time and in the end I arrived at 12:20 in pouring rain. My knees, feet and shoulders all hurt, but at least it is over for now.
On the track, part of the pack harness broke. I rerigged it and it actually was more comfortable from then on.
I met my first and only snake on the track, a young tiger basking in a moment of sun. It slithered off the track in a very lethargic way, but then I was in no hurry either.
There were patches of snow in the open forest near Cynthia Bay, presumably left over from Thursday night. I met two northbound groups, one about half way and the other not far from the end. Neither were going the full distance. The Ranger was only too pleased to advise when I arrived that there had been four times the normal rainfall in March. I believe him!
My civilian clothes were there just as intended, as was my cabin. It is a backpackers room; three beds but at this stage I am sole occupant.
I bought two hot dogs for lunch, plus flavoured milks and a yoghurt dessert. Lamb chops, potato, peas and black cherries will be dinner. Hardly haute cuisine but compared to the recent past it was a very welcome step up. I have had a shower, washed all my dirty clothes from the trip and dried them, and washed up all the cooking and eating things including the stove.
Cynthia Bay 16:00
When I think of what were the highlights I would nominate first thing Saturday (pristine snow on Cradle Mountain), Tuesday (Mt. Ossa) and Thursday/Friday (the great snow storm). But there were of lots of other great things, many of which were fleeting such as the old wombat, the quoll, various people and so on. Low lights were the pain at the end of nearly every day, the sleeping planks, rodent attack, Frog Flats.
The total distance was 99 kms and in all took a bit over 41 hours on the track. Another useless statistic – I estimate I did 12 gross tonne/kms overall!
I am writing this in the communal kitchen-dining area, a quite pleasant place, with two other groups who have also finished the full walk, but via a more direct and in less overall time. I think from all accounts I had the more interesting time. One curious thing – I was talking about the weather when someone started to tell me about this person who was caught out in the Friday storm and had to seek shelter in an emergency hut – which sounded very like someone I know! It appears that I may have become, in a small way, one of the stories of the track.
The trip has been a wonderful experience. It seems silly, even to me at times, that something so physical, basic and vulnerable to wet and cold should be wonderful but it is. I guess that it has to do with achievement, self-control, freedom, new experiences, new people and so on.
So what did I get out of it all? I find this very hard to really set out in words. Maybe the important things were achievement – I did it on my own and, while this is by no means unique, it is unusual. For me it is not only the first major solo walk I have done, but also the longest time in one stretch I have ever walked. Another aspect is the ability to cope and manage – right through from the rather arduous start to the long slog at the end. At few points did I feel inadequate to the situation (the first day was the only real occasion), and most of the time I made up my mind entirely as to what and how I would do the trip. I can’t think of an occasion when I did what someone else wanted rather than what I wanted. Independence – I guess this is part of the earlier achievements but one that I felt quite strongly. It didn’t worry me at all walking unfamiliar tracks to unseen locations all on my own. Sometimes company would appear either as a passing walker or as arrivals at a hut. Even then I could turn on or off at will in most cases.
Physically I hurt a bit and have been disappointed at my stamina and strength but have still gained something in this area. I have been able to keep going, with short stops, for 3 – 4 hours at a time with a pack on and up to 10 hours a day with stops. I was able to cater adequately for myself throughout, benefiting from a bit of trading but dependent only on myself for all things of substance. I don’t know that I got any closer to the meaning of love life and the universe and such higher-level matters. Maybe they just flow from the fundamental issues.
Cynthia Bay 20:00
I am in my room now, cold aching, tired but clean and looking forward to tomorrow. It is raining and the forecast is for worse to come (again).
11km; 3h 10m; cumulative 99km, 41h 30m.
Sunday – Return To Normal Life
Hobart 20:00
I had no companions in the cabin so slept reasonably well, but much too hot in the sleeping bag and had to rearrange things to lie under it instead.
Realised I had not washed socks, shorts and a couple of other things I had been wearing on the track yesterday, so I hand washed them. The socks produced pure mud and my one and only leech that had become attached during the whole trip. The only things left that need drying are gaiters, boots and side pockets, all of which can be left until later to dry out. Coat and overpants will need cleaning but this can wait until home.
The bus to Hobart was not heavily loaded – five ex Lake St. Clair and one more from Mt. Field. It was amazing how quickly the weather improved. At Cynthia Bay it was wet and threatening but by Tarraleah the sun was shining intermittently and stayed so through to Hobart. Everyone else on the bus went to the transit terminal at the south end of the city, so I finished up as the sole person to the Wilderness Travel terminal, arriving about 17:00. And at this point I guess the walk had truly ended.
I was thinking a bit more about the trip last night. Would I have done such a trip on my own a couple of years ago? The answer would have to be no, otherwise I would have done a number of shorter walks (such as Bon Accord Spur) when Ben was not inclined to go. Certainly, I still feel a bit surprised at the ease with which I did the walk and the almost total lack of concern that soloing caused. There were a few times prior to starting when I might have foregone the trip, but these were generally related to external events.
I can’t decide what immediate or long term effects there may have been. Some immediate things are physical – sore and tired bits, probable loss of weight, some muscle, breathing and stamina tone and so on. The psychological is more difficult to deal with and I probably could not objectively assess them anyway. Maybe others can.
Longer term effects may take some time to become apparent. Overall though it has to be one of the great adventures.
I have been thinking about the comradeship on the track. I think the key factor is the spontaneity of it all – no one forces or is forced into any relationship – it all just happens because people want it to. Similarly, the groupings dissemble and change spontaneously as needs arise without any external pressure or acrimony. There has to be a message here.
